The fantastic Cleveland Way passes through pretty Sandsend village and marching northwards it clings close to the coast as it follows a disused railway line. You pass by a moon-like landscape of alum deposits and then up an almost vertical flight of stairs. While catching your breath enjoy sweeping views across the North Sea.
I’ve walked this glorious coastal section many times, striding purposefully towards the tiny hamlet of Kettleness. And then further on to charming Runswick Bay, where higgledy-piggledy houses clinging to its hillside. But before either of these, and just after you’ve clambered up the leg and lung busting metal staircase, there’s a signpost pointing inland. And each time I’ve strode past it, I’ve always thought – next time I’ll take that turn.
And this time I did swing left. I stepped off the well-trodden path and turned to take in a clear blue sky, pierced by the steeple of St Oswald. An iconic landmark for centuries.
With the pupster sniffing and scampering along the hedgerows, we traversed a patchwork of farmers fields. A steep descent down worn steps took us into a wooded valley. Standing on the simple concrete bridge we’d entered another world. The green canopy smothered sounds to create a peaceful haven.
After huffing and puffing up the other side, we were then rewarded with splendid views back to Sandsend and beyond to Whitby. A slight incline and over a stile saw us pass a farmhouse and then the trail wound its way up to Lythe. A settlement mentioned in the Domesday Book.
I’m not particularly religious but I’ve always found old places of worship fascinating, whether it’s a tiny chapel or a grand cathedral. And the beautiful Parish Church of St Oswald did not disappoint. I marvelled at the stonework and stained-glass windows but also discovered how Lythe was an important Viking burial ground. There’s been a church on the site since the thirteenth century. In fact, it’s home to an internationally recognised collection of Anglo-Scandinavian carved stones.
After clicking shut the church door, passing through the graveyard and under the lychgate we headed down the steep bank and back to Sandsend. It was time to enjoy a cup of Botham’s of Whitby Resolution Tea and a slice of their Yorkshire Brack.
Taking the track less trodden was certainly worth it. Perhaps you have a similar story to share?