For more years than we’d care to admit a 31-mile section of the 109-mile Cleveland Way taunted us. It was high time to get our walking boots on and complete the Cleveland Way National Trail.
Why had it taken so long to do it? Simple. Logistics. However, at the start of July it all came together. We had the drop-off and pick-up sorted and our accommodation booked. But it was going to be different to when we hiked the 96-mile West Highland Way a few years back. This time we had a Miniature Schnauzer that likes to sniff and cock his leg at anything off the horizontal. And we had to carry a tent and camping gear.
Sutton Bank to Kildale
I heaved my 60-litre rucksack onto my shoulders and tightened the hip belt. The last time I’d carried it any distance was during our 2008/9 adventure to New Zealand, Australia and Thailand. Everything was pared down to the basics, but I still had eight kilos securely strapped to a considerably less fit seventeen years older body.
Right from the start this section of the Cleveland Way delivers and after only five minutes you arrive at ‘one of England’s loveliest views.’ We could see for miles and with blue skies, fluffy clouds and a cooling breeze it was a perfect walking day.
Walking to Paradise
The miles slipped by as we skirted along the limestone ridge with Gormire Lake below and beautiful butterflies flitting about. With the wind dropping and temperatures rising we made an impromptu stop at delightful High Paradise Farm to remove our coats and apply suntan lotion. After passing through pretty Boltby Woods it was onto Little Moor and a lunch break resting against a stone wall.
Closing in on Osmotherley
With the trail curving away left and a slight incline we tracked alongside trees before the red tiled roofs of Osmotherley appeared in the distance. The track dropped steadily and a sharp left at Square Corner kept taking us down through bracken and past Oak Dale reservoirs. A narrow, flagged lane then bought us out onto the main street of centuries old Osmotherley.
This quaint location was developed primarily as an agricultural market village, but during the 18th and 19th centuries it was a thriving industrial centre. This saw the population double to over 1,000 with workers accommodation required for those in the alum quarries, jet mines, weaving and bleaching industries.
Camping in style
A short walk brought us to the wonderful Cote Ghyll Camping and Caravanning Site. After checking in at Reception we bought a few provisions, pitched our two-man tent before taking off our boots and falling asleep in the sun. Early evening saw us stroll back to the village for a meal at the fantastic Queen Catherine Hotel. I highly recommend the scampi and chips and I have it on good authority that the steak and ale pie is the best-ever. And after walking 11.25mls we happily tucked into a gooey chocolate fudge cake and sticky toffee pudding.
Osmotherley to Clay Bank (or as near as)
After a blissfully hot shower, the tent was stowed and an egg and tomato bun with half a banana fortified us for the next stage. Skirting the village we passed close to Lady’s Chapel, reputedly funded in 1515 by Catherine of Aragorn and then we continued to climb up through South Wood and past the start of the Lyke Wake Walk (a 40-mile moorland walk to Ravenscar). The Cleveland Way alternates between woodland and open moorland with stunning views across the Cleveland Plain with Roseberry Topping and Teesport behind.
We climbed up to Round Hill and further up to Carlton Moor. In the 1990s this section was heavily restored when helicopters were used to bring in large stones for the traditional techniques of slabbing and pitching which date back hundreds of years. It was then a steep descent for a tasty and much needed lunch at Lordstones Café. Stocking up on provisions in the shop we headed back out into rain showers for the long drag up to Cringle Moor to be rewarded with a stunning view at Cringle End. The boundary stone indicates distant landmarks and is dedicated to the memory of Alec Falconer, a founding member of the Middlesbrough Rambling Club who promoted the idea of a long-distance holiday walk along the hills and coast of the North York Moors. He sadly died a year before the Cleveland Way opened in 1969.
After following the escarpment above Kirby Bank the trail descends steeply and at this point we stepped off the Cleveland Way and headed for Beak Hills Farm. This delightful basic campsite has great views along the valley. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to enjoy them much as the rain returned with the wind and set in for a good part of the evening and into the night.
The Final Leg
After sixteen hours under canvas, we emerged to discover the rain had blown itself out. We munched on another egg and tomato bun and the final banana before setting off at 07:30 to complete the final 12.5 miles to Kildale.
After rejoining the track, a steep climb took us up to Cold Moor. The day was gorgeous but bluster weather would be our companion for the rest of the day. The undulating track tested our leg muscles and a climb up Hasty Bank brought us to the distinctive Wainstones.
The Cleveland Way winds its way up and through this jumble of rocks and it must have been an interesting task to screw the acorn markers into the boulders. This section is stunning with superb views and dramatic cliffs dropping away to the forestry below. And all the while we fought the cross winds. After a steep climb up to Urra Moor we took a short break to shelter as much from the gusts as to enjoy a tasty flapjack. We soon hit the highest point on the North York Moors at Round Hill and got some slight relief from the wind. But turning sharp left at aptly named Bloworth Crossing it was back into the crosswind which kept pushing us sideways.
Irritability and hunger increases
I admit to getting a tad annoyed at this stage and with a rumbling stomach and no obvious shelter we retreated into a shallow dip to try and gain some respite. Then came the interesting task of making lunch when all you have to cut bread buns, spread butter and slice cheese are your fingers and a teaspoon. And all the while the wind continues to swirl. But we did it. I am not someone to be defeated when hungry!
Once refuelled, irritation levels dropped and the gorgeous vistas brightened our spirits. To our left we could see the miles of moorland, woodland and escarpments we’d already conquered and turning right the wind slightly dropped. It was then the long descent into pretty Kildale. And we’d done it. The final section of the 109-mile Cleveland Way.
What a fantastic three days. I’d highly recommend the Cleveland Way to all walkers, whether it’s tackling the whole trail or a short section. This National Trail has something for everyone. Outstanding. Bring on the next challenge.